INDOOR AIR QUALITY (IAQ) COMMUNITY

Penicillin — the life giver derived from mold! But Stachybotrys Chartarum is not quite as beneficial; in fact, it is down right deadly.

This common, little considered, “bio-aerosol” can cause fatigue, eye, skin, lung and nervous system symptoms in adult humans, and has been attributed to bleeding lungs in infants and children. It has even been attributed to being the cause of death in severe cases. Now don’t panic about your home, this is not the same mold you see on the tile & in the grout of your shower.

Black mold (as it is more commonly called) prefers the base materials of wood, sheet rock, paper, cotton, cardboard, non ceramic ceiling tile, and carpeting. It grows in the presence of “persistent” moisture, cool temperatures and low light. Under these circumstances it can flourish and spread. It is not so much the mold itself but the spores that become airborne, hence the term bio-aerosol.

Black mold that is left undisturbed is relatively harmless (if I may use that term), but as soon as removal is attempted and it is disturbed its spores are thrown off into the air in abnormal amounts. That’s were the trouble really begins.

There are documented cases of individuals who have attempted to “scrape” black mold off the damp surfaces were they had grown and those individuals suffered severe reactions and even death (as mentioned in a previous article). In Cleveland Ohio several years ago after severe flooding, several children died after a mold outbreak. Leaky roofs, foundation walls, window sashes etc. are common sites for black mold to take hold.

The aggravating part of all molds is that if you dry the area out, and keep it dry, you think you may have the problem solved, but unless you completely remove or destroy the mold it will return with the introduction of moisture. The spores can remain dormant for even years and then return when coaxed with a little moisture. That’s why it’s so difficult to get rid of the mold in the shower and bath area.

The best home remedy for bath and shower mold is a bleach based cleaner. Wipe the area completely with a cloth and allow the bleach cleaner to sit on the surface for a period of time before wiping it clean. Then use your normal household cleaner to remove the bleach odour if you chose. If you discover mold in a damp area of your home:

• First, repair the area were the moisture is accumulating or leaking in
• Then get yourself some very high quality breathing apparatus and isolate the area were the mold has formed. And I mean ISOLATE!
• If there is access to the rest of the house, seal all entries so spores can not migrate as you work.
• Then proceed with the bleach application being careful not to disturb any of the mold beyond just wiping down with your bleach cloth, or spray.
• Then ABSOLUTELY remove ALL contaminated material, even if you have to remove more than necessary to be sure you have it all.
• Then, dispose of it in clear bags that are marked “contains mold infected material”.
• If there is structural material involved and it appears to be a big job….suck it up, and get it done – you’re playing with peoples lives.

I have a nephew (by marriage) who is in this exact situation right now. His lower basement has been leaking for a couple of years now and when I found out I read him the “mold riot act”. We have been through two very intense search and clean sessions already. He has the dubious job of removing most of the lower wallboard in the basement, part of his supporting wall, and a ton of damp contaminated insulation. But it has to be done. Do a routine check from time to time to make sure your environment is tight & dry. It should only take about an hour with a flashlight, and it could save a family member (or your own) life.

I’ve been following some of the “Holmes on Homes” episodes recently because there’s been a big emphasis on the appearance of black mold between the vapour barrier and the sheathing on homes of all sizes and age. There is no real safe age or type of construction that a buyer (or owner) can seek out to escape the possibilities of mold growth in their home. Mike Holmes hits the nail on the head in each episode that he gets involved in with mold remediation.

It is REQUIRED that a “wall” vapour barrier overlap the ceiling surface and floor surface and be properly sealed to prevent moisture from migrating from the warm side of the wall to the cooler surface behind the barrier. The secret to a proper job is the sealing of the vapour barrier at joints and overlaps.

The indoor relative humidity may only be at 25% to 30% but (as we’ve seen in prior notes) as the moist indoor air approaches, a cold area adjacent to an outside wall, for example, the relative humidity rises and the dew point may be reached.

Hence CONDENSATION. Followed by a “wet patch”, followed by the growth of mold. For the most part though, the mold forms where it can’t be seen because the condensation takes place behind the drywall on the cold side of the vapour barrier. It can grow there for years and out live several generations of owners until one day it is discovered, by which time it may be so entrenched there is no other recourse than to rip out the contaminated walls and replace the drywall, insulation, vapour barrier, even the studs if needed.

If a bathroom is the contaminated area, the mold can encompass the walls, ceilings, etc. Mold can dry out and sit dormant for years and explode into a growth pattern once it is supplied with a fresh bust of moisture.

Mold spores can be the source of asthma, allergic reactions, even anaphylactic shock & death. It is wise to be on guard and monitor the indoor RH and temperature and keep the introduction of fresh air and the circulation of indoor air to a maximum.